We had one day to make a move and snug back down – by evening, the forecast predicted wind from the southwest gusting to 25. Last night was chilly – 36° – and I was grateful for shore power to run our electric heater. A little warmth makes getting out of bed alot more appealing. With the sunrise, I could see fog sweeping down the river, thick at first and then thinning to gossamer wisps as the air slowly warmed. Around 7:30am, we took in our lines and motored toward the Albemarle Sound.
Out on the open water, we found enough of a breeze to sail.
For the next 10 miles, we broad-reached and ran at between 3 and 5 knots. Then, at lunchtime, our breeze faded and we turned on the motor, to take us into the Scuppernong River and 2.5nm up to the town of Columbia.
Like Elizabeth City, Edenton, and Plymouth, Columbia offers 48 hours of free dockage. The waterfront is well-protected – in the lee of land and a highway bridge, with cypress swamp the rest of the way ’round. We thought it a good spot to wait out this latest round of “stink”.
The docks are in fair condition and lay right at the foot of Main Street, making the view out our “back door” charming. There’s a single, lockable (from the inside) bathhouse with ample hooks, a bench, and a shower that issues forth a solid spray of gloriously hot water. You’d think a lock on the inside would be standard, but many marinas have electronic locks on the outside and only shower curtains on the inside; everyone has the combination, so anyone can walk right in while you’re soaking wet and naked. Feeling vulnerable?
Priority number one after checking in at the municipal building and learning the lay of the land was to do laundry. Google Maps didn’t show any laundromats in the area, and that’s because the laundry is also the gas station and convenience store – Maps allows only one category for a listing. We were pleased to be able to attend to our washing just a couple blocks away.
Population density here is noticeably low compared to home – <900/sq. mile versus >2000/sq. mile. Everyone we’ve met has been friendly, from David and Carlos, the two day-release prison inmates doing landscaping and maintenance for the town, to Rhett the town manager and history buff, to the two gentlemen standing outside the laundromat, waiting for their laundry to dry.
At sunset, a young lady came and sat at the end of the dock, basking in the golden light and doing some pre-jump rope stretching. I don’t think she knew I could see her – I was down below making dinner; her upturned face radiated the peace of a human feeling the sun’s warmth when winter is not yet forgotten. Dogs barked and got walked, and families with children came to play – everyone gravitating to the waterfront to close the day. We felt priveleged to share this place and time.
Sailing Gracefully 
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