Tired from bicycling yesterday, we were ready for a low-key day of swamp navigation. We wanted to stop to top off our propane tank in South Mills and still arrive in Elizabeth City by mid-afternoon, which meant we had to catch the 8:30am bridge opening at South Mills. Then, instead of locking through, we tied to the seawall before the lock, which gives easy access to the town. Dobbs took care of our propane and diesel while I caught up on log entries. At 11:30am, we entered the lock and descended 8′ to the Pasquotank River. For lovers of cypress trees like myself, this winding stretch of river is fulfilling.
Where trees have fallen into the tannic water, turtles climb out to bask. We motored slower than we could have, taking in nature’s splendor.
Upon arrival in Elizabeth City, we could see that all the free docks before the drawbridge were full, so instead we pulled into a different dock (also owned by Mid-Atlantic Christian University). This one they reserve for their own boats and visiting friends; we’d been invited to tie up there once before, so we went that route again and, not wanting to assume, kept our eyes and ears out for the dockmaster. While we were heading in, a boat we’d met back at the Welcome Center, Zia, hailed us on the radio to confirm that the docks were full – they’d taken the last space at Jeannette Bros. (another free dock), next to a boat named Pyxis. Pyxis! That’s our friends Barry and Jen from North East River Yacht Club, who’d wintered in the Bahamas. Once we had Grace secure, we walked over to catch up with them.
Later, returning to Grace, we were met by Aaron, a member of the MACU staff who’s living with his family in an RV down at the dock while working on the university’s boats. They have their own fleet plus donations that they fix up and resell. He’d been preparing to do his first rope-to-chain splice for an anchor rode, watching YouTube videos. “Had we ever done one?” 😉 Well…
While I fried up fish and chips for dinner and put together a red cabbage slaw, I had the pleasure of gazing out at Aaron and Dobbs – Dobbs on an over-turned wood bucket with a sheet of plywood on top; Aaron perched on a concrete block, I think; Dobbs taking Aaron through the steps of the splice, the voices of teacher and student entwined with birdsong and the rustling of wind in leaves and tall grass. When Dobbs came home for dinner, we could hear Aaron’s little ones playing in the field while Aaron carried in groceries for his wife. Such is our cruising life – sometimes challenging, often idyllic, and absolutely authentic.
Sailing Gracefully 
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